History of Erris

Erris (lorras)

This is the name given to the extreme North West of County Mayo. The word: Iorras has been variously interpreted throughout history as meaning: border land, headland or promontory, peninsula. The name appears as “Irrus Domnann” (lorras of the people called Domnann) in a great many Irish sources. Perhaps the most notable an 11th Century manuscript known as “Lebor na hUidre” (Book of the dun Cow).The Domhnann are believed to be related to the British people who settled over a large part of England and Southern Scotland in Roman Times and have given their name to Devon the South of England.

In the early history period “Iorras” belonged to the Cinel Fedhlinadh, a branch of the Kingdom of Hy Fiaachrach. In mythology Fiachre was son of Lir the Ocean God who was turned into a swan after many years regained his human form on the Island of Inishglora. The Chieftain was named O’Caithnaidh (Canny) whose death was recorded in the annals of the four Masters in 1180.

Erris was dominated by various families throughout the medieval period, principally by O’Dowds until after the Norman Invasion when the Barretts and Burkes, both Norman families established themselves as Barons of Erris. In the late 16th century, Mayo as a County became established and ten “Baronies” were created to act as administrative centres for the ten ruling English.

Erris (then known as Invermore) came under the governorship of Sir Henry Sidney who appointed Sheriffs and Officials. They in turn introduced landlords who were allowed to take estates under grants from the English Crown. The plantation of the 17th century brought new families to Erris and the local people were banished from place to place a pattern that was to be repeated in the later centuries of Famine and eviction. The “Quaker Relief Committee” of the 19th century produced reports of the pitiful conditions of the people and the massive neglect by absentee landlords. Sir Arthur Shaen was one of the early landlords; his heirs being Carter and Bingham (who married Shaen’s daughters), and their families respectively established Belmullet and Binghamstown.

Belmullet is the principal town of Erris and was established in 1825 by the then local landlord William Carter. In 1824 Mr P.Knight an engineer from London, was brought in to draw up a plan for the proposed town of Belmullet. Built on a narrow neck of land less than 400m wide, Belmullet effectively divided Broadhaven Bay at the North from the much deeper Bay Of Blacksod to the South. As such it forms the gateway to the Belmullet Peninsula itself. A canal started and was later abandoned by Arthur Shaen, was later completed in 1824 by William Carter, to join the two bays, known as “Shaen’s cut”. A new bridge was opened to cross this narrow channel in 1986.

Belmullet represents one of the last of the planned urban developments initiated by the 19th Century landlord class. The thought behind its establishment was to create “a home market for produce which did not previously exist nearer than 30 miles.

Binghamstown was established some 3km South of Belmullet in the third decade of the 19th century. It was named after its founder Major Bingham. The fate of Binghamstown may be attributed largely to the success of Belmullet. Belmullet had grown rapidly and soon had taken much of the trade from Binghamstown. Thus Bingham decided to build a huge gate across the roadway to try to prevent cattle being driven to the fair in Belmullet, without paying a substantial bill. Hence, the Irish name for Binghamstown “An Geata Mor” (i.e. The Big Gate). However in retaliation the country people drove their cattle through the fields thus avoiding payment on their way to Belmullet. By the end of the 19th century Binghamstown fell into disuse as a market.

In 1879 The Land League was founded this spelt the beginning of the end for the landlords with The Land League’s demanding the land for the people. It was opposed to violence and wished to achieve this through peaceful means. However in the late 1870’s and early 1880’s there was a series of poor harvests with people unable to pay rent resulting in a series of evictions and violence throughout the area. The Land League was eventually succeeded by The United Irish League which made its goal to purchase land from the landlords and redistribute it among the people. This resulted in much resistance from the landlord class and from the grabbers and graziers or the individuals who purchased land off the landlords for their own purposes. Over time though through the intervention of various groups and the newly formed Irish government all the land was to slowly return to the native population and in 1955 the people of Belmullet finally bought the town back from a Mr. Carter, a resident of London. The ownership of some land in the Erris region is still disputed to this day.

During the early part of the 20th century Blacksod Pier was under serious consideration as a Trans-Atlantic link a railway was to be built from Dublin to Erris with boats leaving Blacksod and arriving in Canada 14 hours later. These plans were shelved due to the outbreak of war in Europe in 1914. The idea of major port and rail link was considered again in 1918 to help with the war effort but these plans were also shelved when the war ended in November 1918.

The people of the Erris area where actively involved in the Irish War of Independence there was regular meetings, training drills and fundraising events for the volunteers fighting in the war throughout the area.

In the 1950’s the rural electrification scheme brought electricity to the Erris area and with it new Business’s. A cooperative was set up among the farmers in the 1960’s to help give them access to outside markets and in the 1970’s Udarás na Gaeltachta built an industrial estate. The Erris area has now grown and developed with the rest of modern Ireland right into the 21st century while still maintaining its untouched scenery and environment it is truly an un-spoilt wilderness on Ireland’s western edge.

For a more detailed history of Erris pick up a copy of Within the Mullet by Rita Nolan and Where the Sun sets by Father Sean Noone in a local book shop or newsagents.